Exopoli
...“I couldn’t help overhearing you speaking English My name’s Roy, I live over here with my wife Margaret.” He had a welsh lilt and when Margaret joined us we discovered she had the same, even when speaking Greek
“We have a small
cottage we are fixing up a couple of kilometers from here.” She
told us as she sat and joined our company at the table and began to
chat away nineteen to the dozen. I soon discovered Roy was quite a
raconteur and told amazing tales of their life her on the island,
Margaret ( Known as Margarita to the locals) breaking in to the narrative often to clarify a point of
detail.
Suddenly we heard
a Greek voice with an American accent. It was a young man of about
nineteen, tanned and clean shaven.
He introduced
himself. ‘Hi I’m Yianni’ he announced. ‘I live across the
road. I’ve brought some music.’ He waved a handful of music
cassettes in the air with his right hand and waved a cassette player
in the air with the left as he vanished into the depths of Spiros
inner room.
We expected Greek
music, but suddenly we heard the familiar tones of Elvis Presley. In
a flash all were on their feet, jiving, twirling, spinning, tables
pushed out of the way, the sound of rock and roll echoing around the
quiet valley.
‘I have been
living with my parents in America’ Yianni informed us when we took
a breather. ‘I was brought up there, though my parents are from the
village here. We’ve just returned to Greece and it is my dream to
build a taverna on the side of the mountain. He gestured across the
road. ‘Now we are beginning.’
Exopoli
The dancing
continued until all the company was exhausted. We left late, vowing
to return to this little taverna, largely unknown to the holiday
makers, and also to visit Yannis’ taverna as soon as it was up and
running.
The following
day the sea was as calm as a millpond, no ripples disturbing its
glassy smoothness. The wind had dropped and the day was hot and
still. Arriving at the as yet deserted beach, it was early morning;
we spread our towels in our favourite
spot and set up our newly acquired parasol.
“Isn’t this
marvelous?’ asked Chris, speaking more to herself than really
expecting a reply. ‘So quiet and peaceful, we can truly relax. You
know that Ian always
needs a couple of days to unwind when we arrive on holiday.
If I could only prise
that newspaper away
from him.’ she mused “Good job we don’t have a phone in our
room.”
‘It’s
absolute bliss’ I agreed ‘Just look at the
colour of that sea.’ I stretched lazily
basking in the warmth. We were well in to our holiday by now and we
had begun to become accustomed to the peace and quiet.
The sea was the
colour of pale Amethyst, stretching away to
the horizon, the headland nearby fading, hazy, in the heat.
“I think I’ll go
for a dip before I get too hot.” I said, standing up and scanning
the blue of the sea “Coming?” Chris joined me and we strolled
down to the waters edge. The sand had not yet heated up to the fiery
temperature that it would reach later in the day when the sun had
been beating down on it for a couple of hours more.
We swam
languorously, not wishing to disturb the sense of peace that washed
over us.
“Can you
believe that there is still snow on the tops of the mountains”
remarked Chris. “This is just incredible, to float in the warm sea
and at the same time to be able to see the snow.”
“Amazing” I
agreed. We floated in companiable
silence on the calm water and after a while made our way back to the
beach to flop once again on the warm sand. A few more people were
making their way along the waters edge towards where we were lying,
but it was early in the season and a long beach so there was no
crowding.
“Can you see what I see?” asked Chris, sitting up to apply more sun lotion. I turned my head in the direction she indicated and giggled. Coming towards us was a middle aged couple, weighed down with bags, towels and a parasol .The husband was portly and was almost as wide as he was tall.
“Can you see what I see?” asked Chris, sitting up to apply more sun lotion. I turned my head in the direction she indicated and giggled. Coming towards us was a middle aged couple, weighed down with bags, towels and a parasol .The husband was portly and was almost as wide as he was tall.
“Mr. five by
Five’ Chuckled Chris ‘Five feet tall and five feet wide” the
wife also showed the same tendencies though not quite to the same
degree. The thing that really made them stand out amongst the other
people on the beach was the fact that they were both totally naked.
“I don’t
believe it!” spluttered Ian “Here on a public beach. They are not
even trying to be discreet.”
It was indeed
difficult to know where to look, but the couple seemed unconcerned by
the bemused glances they were getting. As they came closer we could
hear them speaking, it seemed to be German. They walked on past us
and eventually settled in a scrubby patch of sand dune a little way
off.
“Thank goodness
for that.” muttered Ian prudishly “It was putting me off my
morning croissant.” and with that he took a bite of the freshly
baked croissant he had brought with him from an early morning trip to
the little village bakery. The buttery crumbs floated down onto his
reddening chest where they remained; stuck to the sun lotion he had
liberally applied a little while before.
“That’s today’s
excitement over then” Chris raised one eyebrow and we collapsed
with fits of the giggles.
“Hope they don’t
sit at the beach bar later to drink beer.” added Ian
“Or to eat hot
dogs!” spluttered Chris as she settled down to tackle the huge
blockbuster novel she had bought at the airport before we left...
Paradise
regained, we put the thoughts of our unusual companions out of our
minds and dozed as the sun continued its morning journey across the
sky.
Kalivaki Beach
“Chris! Wake up!”
I reached over and gave her a nudge, “Our nudist friends are up to
something. No. Not that!” I hastily reassured her, seeing her
horrified expression.
“What are they up
to?” she wondered aloud “They seem to be marking something out on
the beach.” Indeed they were and they were approaching us drawing
out a line in the sand. By this time Ian too was watching the goings
on.
“It looks like
a volley ball court.” he said “Surely they’re not going to play
in the nude.”
“He’s
holding a bugle in his hand.” remarked Chris. Ian sat up abruptly.
‘I said A
bugle, not HIS
Bugle!” She laughed at the expression on her husbands face. “What
do you think he’s going to do?”
“I shudder to
think” muttered Ian. As we watched, mesmerized, the man lifted the
bugle to his mouth and blew a loud fanfare. From all corners of the
beach other people came running, obviously his friends. All of them
also in the nude.
“I can’t
believe what I am seeing!” said Ian.
The man and his
companions separated into two teams and began to play beach volley
ball”
This is not a
pretty sight.” Chris smothered a giggle “I hope they don’t drop
the ball.” “Behave yourself” chided Ian “Hope they don’t
get sunburn” he added.
“Well if they do
I’m not going to volunteer to rub on the ‘after sun’”
retorted Chris “I’ve never seen anything like it in my life! They
could at least have gone a little further along the beach, away from
the rest of the public.”
Eventually, the players
became tired and the game faltered to a halt. They ran down the beach
and plunged into the sea. We waited until they had gone before
venturing down to the sea again.
“I’m glad
that’s over” Chris said breathing a sigh of relief “I didn’t
know where to put myself.”
“Or where to look.”
Added Ian.
“Oh I knew where
to look!” responded Chris, just a little too quickly earning
herself a frown from Ian
“It wouldn’t have been
so bad if they were young and lithe” I remarked, grinning at Chris
who smiled appreciatively back.
What we didn’t
know then was that this was to become a daily part of our holiday.
Not only that but this company came every year to Crete during the
same two weeks of the year.
We bumped into
the welsh couple, Roy and Margaret several times during our stay. One
evening as we finished our meal they invited us to join them at their
table.
Roy and Margarita
“We aren’t eating,”
Margaret told us “We just like to come in here for a drink, the
cafeterias charge silly prices for the sake of some ice and an
umbrella. We’re not tourists we have to be sensible with our money,
not throw it away.”
“Too true.”
agreed Roy. “Especially with the amount she drinks.”
“Our new house is nearly
finished.” Margaret broke in changing he conversation
“Yes. Have you ever seen
a key like this?” Asked Roy producing an enormous key nearly ten
inches long from his pocket “I have to be careful which pocket I
put it in,” he continued with a twinkle in his eye “or I get some
very strange looks from the ladies.”
“Put it away Roy.”
Snapped Margaret
“That’s what you
told me last night!” he expostulated with a grin.
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